JEAN MUIR

Jean Muir (1928-1995) was one of Britain’s most quietly influential designers, known for her uncompromising approach to cut, fabric and fit. After studying at Saint Martin’s School of Art and working at Liberty of London and Jaeger, she founded her own label in the 1960s, building a reputation for clothes that prioritised movement, comfort and precision.

Muir worked extensively with viscose jersey, silk, wool crepe, soft leathers and suede, favouring fabrics that flowed with the body rather than restricting it. Rather than relying on a mannequin block, she often developed and modelled her designs directly on the body, allowing her to understand exactly how the fabric would move, fall and sit in real life. There is a mathematical clarity to her work, balanced by an instinctive understanding of the female form.

Her designs rejected rigid tailoring and unnecessary structure in favour of fluid, elongated silhouettes that feel as relevant now as they did then. Understated rather than showy, Jean Muir pieces are defined by their integrity, craftsmanship and longevity.

The humble charity shop is where my love affair with fashion began. Since I can remember I have never walked past a charity store without popping inside for a rummage.